Protecting Fruit from Animals and Birds

by Doug
(in his garden)

One of the big problems faced by homeowners is protecting small fruit from animals and birds. These are serious economic problems when faced by commercial growers and birds and rodents can create havoc in the fields.

So without further ado, here’s the short version of things I’ve done and would recommend in the home garden. I’ve also included some notes on things I wouldn’t do.


What Not to Do



Don't spray with a noxious substance to make the fruit toul-tasting (so animals won’t eat it). I suspect you’re laughing as hard as I was when I first read that little nugget but the fact is, if you spray something foul tasting or smelling on the fruit - you won’t want to eat it either.

And no, you can’t just spray it on the leaves as you’ll never keep it on the leaves with small fruit.

Having said that - black pepper -has been recommended by some gardeners to be dusted liberally on the plants; and has been seen to deter squirrels and chipmunks quite nicely. You can wash the fruit (you had better wash the fruit) to eat it yourself. Not foolproof by any means but doable (some fruit with cracks and crevices may require extra “cleaning”). Not recommended for fruit but as an alternative or as a last resort, you can try it.


Controlling Slugs




There are two options here. The first is to use a noxious product containing a bait with Iron in it. There are several kinds of “Iron” being used but it’s all toxic to slugs. They eat it and die. This might take a lot of bait if you have a large patch.

The old saucer full of beer works but here’s the drill. The lip of the saucer or container has to be at ground level. And the beer or yeast-water-mix (both work equally well) has to be about a half-inch to inch below the rim of the saucer (use a glass jar and sink it appropriately instead of a saucer). If the beer or yeast is at ground level, the slugs will simply drink it without falling in.

Controlling Squirrels and Chipmunks



This is a tough one. Squirrels are territorial and all have and protect this area from intruders. There is some overlap at the edges and they seem to accept neighbors at those overlaps.

Which is to say that your garden is probably an overlap area (well stocked food areas are almost always overlap areas) and will be used by several squirrels (always the same ones) as a food source. So think of it as having a half dozen extra residents hanging about. I know it seems like more but the resident squirrels who own your garden will chase out invaders.

This is why if you trap a squirrel another will move in almost immediately to occupy that territory. You can’t easily drop the numbers because of the high numbers of this animal in almost any urban environment. If you trap and move an animal, all you’re doing is moving it into an area that’s already occupied and where it won’t have any protection from predators. It’s a slow death for most moved animals.


If you use a light bird-fence, a squirrel won’t even hesitate to chew it’s way through. I’ve seen them try to chew through window sills (I had to shoot it) and one did chew its way through my aunt’s back door one summer (what a mess in the kitchen when they returned from holidays)

So we know that fencing doesn’t work. We know that foul tasting sprays don’t work.

What works?

Feeding them. Just about the time the fruit starts to ripen, pull out the big bags of corn or sunflower seeds and establish a feeding station for squirrels to keep them busy and out of your fruit. They’ll feed themselves, stuff their nests and generally refer to you as the great gardener. But they’ll leave your fruit alone.


Controlling Rabbits



Rabbits are relatively easy to control next to squirrels. We’re talking a fence with 2-inch holes at a maximum - with the bottom 6-8 inches of it buried in the ground and a board along the bottom to deter digging and lifting. The normal style of chain-link fencing is fine for this purpose. This regular stuff won’t keep baby bunnies out (those guys seem to fly) but it will keep adults out of the penned in area.

Doors are a weak point and are often where you’ll see a 3-inch gap where any self-respecting rabbit can easily squeeze through.

Do not use plastic fencing - rabbits and rodents chew their way through that using the fence as dental floss for your fruit.


Controlling Birds



Birds are controlled by using bird netting. This thin plastic netting is draped over supports to keep it off the fruit and the birds away from the fruit.

You really have to make sure there are no entrance holes because if there are, a bird will find them for sure and you’ll return to a crazed bird poking holes in the netting or worse, a dead bird.

Confirmed fruit growers have been known to make full adult-sized frameworks in their gardens - covering them with netting (think greenhouse covered with bird netting) in order to protect their fruit.

Some gardeners recommend hanging old cd’s in the garden to rotate and throw shadows so the birds won’t stay.

You’re going to find all manner of bird-scare devices out there from a plastic snake (doesn’t work) to a noise-cannon-banger (really, really annoys the neighbors and by-law enforcement officer). Let us know what you’ve used in the comments.


What Have You Used?



And that leads me to asking you what you’ve used to deter pests in your garden? How have you protected your fruit. Here’s the link to share.

Comments for
Protecting Fruit from Animals and Birds

Click here to add your own comments

CDs & Pie Plates
by: Norma

Elderberry: CDs have worked for me.

Raspberries: Using 1" metal conduit pipes to make a frame above the patch,with tent pole support legs .
Hanging disposable aluminum pie plates on a string from the pipes to twirl in the wind .If neighbours are close, share your berries.It's more pleasant than removing robins & tree rats aka squirrels ,from protective netting.

compost smoothie
by: Anonymous

I put all my compost every day in my designated compost Vita Mix container. Add a little water and whiz up a garbage smoothie and daily bury it in spots in the garden. The worms make a bee-line (or I could say a 'worm-trail') to the area and in about three days you can hardly tell it is there except for the richness of the soil and the happy plants. I sometimes add egg shells, sea weed, fertilizers or whatever I want in my soil. Be careful to not allow too many orange peels in one place. In the extreme of winter I store this slurry in five gallon buckets on the deck (had four of them one year) and the freeze/thaw action of the Calgary chinooks degrades it further. Come spring I dig it all in to the garden. No more skunks to bother my compost pile. Here's three cheers for Vita Mix!!!!! I burned out five of the other brands first.

Dogs vs. pests
by: Carolyn

Ah, but have you trained her to eat slugs? : )

Protection from all pests...
by: Laurie

The best defense I have to protect everything in my gardens is a good outdoor dog. I know it isn't possible if you live in the city, but out in the country a good dog that is left untied is the best protection for the garden. My dog Lucy scares everything away except people - squirrels, rabbits, deer, raccoons etc. day and night.

Raccons
by: MaryEllen

I have used 90 HU Cayenne pepper from the health store to detour raccoons eating my cantaloupes , as well as worms on leafy plants

cats & bears
by: Karen

I use fine plastic mesh to keep birds from strawberries and deer off veggies - although we don't have a serious deer problem.

For the rest I have a cat. She takes care of all squirrels, moles, small rabbits.

I've used Treeguard on ornamentals in dry years where we had a deer problem. Discovered that it also works well for keeping bears out of the compost. I make a nice feast of apples or whatever on the top of the composter and lace it well with Treeguard. After one experience with that, just the smell of some Treeguard keeps the bear from digging in my compost barrel. It is odorless to humans.

I forgot
by: Doug

Cheryl - thanks for the reminder of the Scarecrow water sprinkler system. I have written about them in the past but obviously missed them this time around. Good tool and available through all kinds of outlets now. Thanks again

scarecrows; updated
by: cheryl

i had a gardening client with a small fortune invested in berries/perennials and a herd of deer with rabbit sidekicks...disney gone wild..she tried everything (including hair from hairbrushes strewn around, caging 500 new asiatic lilies in hardware cloth, bloodmeal everywhere, umbrellas draped with netting,young men with guns and dogs...YIKES) to no avail...we bought a 'scarecrow' from lee valley..attaches to your hose, has a motion sensor, turns toward movement, blasts water in that direction..less than 100 dollars, no bloodshed required..PLEASE remember to turn water off before the gardeners come to weed :)

Deer control
by: Anne

Deer like to prune my berry bushes but not anymore! This wireless deer fence involves a little more expense but really works and also saves the hosta, etc. all summer long. I got two sets to create a perimeter along the wooded side of our property to hold them back. I first saw it recommended at a commercial garden. wirelessdeerfence.com

A cool way to deter birds
by: Carolyn

I have not used this one because it's completely impractical for homeowners. But I thought it was a clever solution for commercial growers.

Earlier in the year I read an article about a blueberry-growing outfit in Connecticut that hires a falconer for bird control. No, the falcons do not chase and eat the birds; rather, they are trained as scare-mongers. Apparently it works, and the cost is less than most or all other solutions. The grower still loses some of the crop but far less, and no toxics and netting and other controls are required.

Click here to add your own comments











.