Let’s deal briefly with fruit tree pruning and restoration. There are a few fairly simple things to understand.
The first is how any plant responds to pruning. And this video (if you haven’t seen it or absorbed it’s message - this is the single most important thing you need to know!) will show you how any fruit tree responds when you cut it in different places.
Does this work with fruit trees? Absolutely - this is what you need to know to prune any plant including fruit trees. And yes, I did say *any* plant.
But does it work with fruit tree renovation too? Yes. It does. No matter when you make the cut, the tree will respond in this kind of way.
Having said that - old branches will respond in slightly different ways if you make a bad cut. If you take a thinning cut and don’t do it properly on a mature branch, you’ll get a bunch of water-sprout types of growth from around the cut. This poor cut has left growth points and the tree responds by throwing up new shoots around the poor cut. The trick is to make good cuts (in other words the cut was a heading cut even though you thought you were doing a thinning cut - you didn’t take the cut quite far enough.)
So - once you understand this - you now need to know what shape you’re trying to create in your trees. Stay tuned.
Good stuff as far as it goes but very important to make good pruning cuts. i.e. to, but not into, the branch collar or lateral so it heals well with minimal risk of disease or shooting, no flush cuts and no stubs. First remove all dead, diseased and crossed or rubbing branches. Also fails to mention reason for thinning cuts - In addition to shape, branch structure and keeping branches low enough to reach for harvest, the tree should be opened up so good light reaches all foliage. But avoid removing more than 1/3 of the foliage. Aim for minimal pruning twice a year from an early stage. Also good to know if your tree fruits on new or second year foliage (pip fruit). Watch how your tree responds and learn from mistakes.
When to prune. by: Anonymous
You may want to add that doing two prunings a year is beneficial to fruit trees. The first one is in summer immediately after picking the last fruit for the year. Do the heavy cuts then to keep the tree the right size. The next set of cuts would be done in the winter on a bare tree to remove the dead branches and to fine-tune your shape, openess, etc. This method has great results for keeping trees small and full of fruit for the next season.
Pruning Fruit Trees by: Marilyn
Good video, understand this part now anxiously awaiting the training of new trees and renovation of old trees. Have both and need help on both. Thanks again for all your helpful information.
Good video by: Heidi
Just the refresher I needed. I've been itching to go out in the yard and do some pruning now that things are greening up, but didn't want to do it poorly.
Now my only complaint is that it's too dark to begin *right now*. ;)
Thanks!
Pruning video by: Janet
Thank you, Doug. Very simple so even I can understand it, yet very, very, helpful. That is what differentiates this site from all the others - simple, plain, accurate explanations.
"Sucker" Shoots by: Doug
Good video Doug.
I am never sure if and when I should remove what I call "sucker" shoots - those branches that grow straight up with little or no buds. I usually remove as I do for tomato plants. Would be interested in your comments.
Thanks
Doug
pruning by: maude
Alleluia. I get it. Thanks Doug. Your info in my mailbox is always welcome.
Pruning Trees by: Linda in Gig Harbor
At last!! I understand!! This is why I joined your blog; because you explain in easy, understandable terms. Thank You!!
Pruning simplified by: Sonia
Enjoyed the pruning demonstration, simple and your diagram made the info very clear. Appreciate the effort you put into educating us "newbies". Thank you.
fruit tree pruning by: Linda Pugh
Very good!
Simple, clear, and slow enough for the info. to sink in!!!
I'm really looking forward to watching more of your videos :-)